Cowboy Coffee

I always wondered how the cowboys in the old west made their coffee. I'm sure they didn't bother with filters or something as fancy as a French press.

On my first overnight pack trip at Rock Creek Pack Station, I learned the trick. 

Here is what you need:
  • A heat source
  • A metal kettle or pitcher
  • Coffee grounds
  • Water
  • A small cup

  1. Fill the kettle 3/4 full of water and put it on your heat source to boil 
  2. Fill the small cup with the coldest water you have 
  3. Once the kettle water is boiling, slowly add the coffee grounds. Be careful because adding coffee grounds can make your kettle boil over. If it looks like it is about to, pull it off the heat for a second or two 
  4. Boil the coffee for a couple of minutes
  5. Reduce the heat to low
  6. To get the coffee grounds to sink to the bottom, pour the cup of cold water over the grounds
  7. Pour carefully and the grounds will stay on the bottom

Make Your Own Outdoor Gear Resources

I love making things myself. I've always dreamed of having my own outdoor brand- not a very feasible business idea that I would probably end up hating in the long run. With all the technical fabrics available online, we are no longer bound to the products made by big outdoor brands. You'll find fabric, patterns and tutorials online for everything from backpacks to tents to sleeping bags and rain jackets. I've put together the resources I go to when I have a project. If you know of any that I haven't listed, please mention them in the comments.

Forums This forum is the go-to spot for hammock camping tricks. There is a forum for all things DIY, just don't post with tent making questions as it is a hammock camping only forum. This is a community of Appalachian Trail enthusiasts with TONS of info on the AT- you can get answers to all your AT questions. There is also a forum on here for DIY gear.

BackpackingLight has forums dedicated to a variety of topics including a MYOG Forum (make your own gear) To post to the forum you must have a basic membership to the site which costs $5 a year has a little corner of their website dedicated to a MYOG forum. 


Backpacking Light has awesome tutorials for MYOG (make your own gear) but most of them require a premium membership to the site to view. A yearly premium membership is $25

Instructables This is a great website where you'll find tutorials for all kinds of projects- not just outdoor gear. Membership is free and you can view all the 'instructables' for free with or without a membership. They also have themed contests for the best instructable with fantastic prizes. Has a special MYOG page with links to the tutorials on the left side of the page- everything from backpacks and shelters to stoves and sleeping systems

 Material, Compnents, Patterns
DIY Gear Supply - 

  • Wide variety of coated and uncoated nylon in lots of weights and colors
  • Insulation: Climashield, down and insultex
  • Hanging supplies: rings, webbing
  • Odds + ends: buckles, rings, zippers, velcro, mesh
  • DIY guides: sewing tips, hammock, backpack, bivy, insulation, tarps

Ripstop By The Roll-

  • Fabrics: nylon ripstop, polyester ripstop, cuben, tyvek, silpoly, taffeta, camo
  • Mesh
  • Nylon webbing and grossgrain ribbon
  • Insulation: Climashield, down, Primaloft
  • Components: metal hardware, plastic hardware, seam sealant, thread, cordage, zippers
  • Patterns: tarps + hammocks
Dutchware Gear-

  •  Fabrics- Argon, Hexon, Xenon, Silpoly, silnylon, tyvek, cuben, no-seeum mesh, multicam
  • Hardware- titanium tensioners, biners, hooks, plastic buckles, hooks, rings
  • Rolled Goods- zippers, cordage, webbing
Seattle Fabrics

  • Malden Mills (Polartec) fleece
  • Technical outdoor knits and spandex
  • Neoprene
  • Equestrian fabrics
  • Outdoor Sunshade and Sunbrella fabrics
  • Marine canvas
  • Webbing and cordage
  • Buckles, sliders, cord locks
  • Grommets, snaps, rings
  • Zippers

Quest Fabrics

  • Fabrics- waterproof breathable, fleece, coated, uncoated, wicking, stretch, mesh, insulation, down, foam, neoprene, camo
  • Fasteners- plastic + metal
  • Roll Goods- cordage, webbing, zippers, elastic, drawcord, velcro, shock cord, thread
  • DIY tent poles in aluminum and fiberglass
  • Patterns: jackets, rain gear, pants, mittens, gloves, cycling shorts + jerseys, dog packs, backpacks, tents, bivy, tarp, stuff sack, compression bag, ski bag

Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics
  •  Fabrics: Gore-Tex, stretch woven, wicking baselayer, fleece, mesh, polyester coated, generic waterproof breathable, canvas, camo, microfiber, neoprene, vinyl, pack cloth, cordura, Lycra, ripstop
  • Insulations: climashield, thinsulate
  • Metal hardware: cam buckles, grommets, eyelets, zippers, buckles, D rings, snaps
  • Plastic Hardware: cam buckles, center release buckles, side release buckles, cord locks, snap hooks
  • Patterns: pants, jackets, bags, packs, tarps, tents, totes, sleeping bags, gaitors, dog packs, hats, mittens, long underwear, bivy

  • Fabrics: uncoated including the famous MomentumD, coated, waterproof breathable
  • Rolled goods: Lycra binding, grosgrain ribbon, webbing, shock cord
  • Zippers
  • Insulation: climashield, down, primaloft
Ray-Way - Quilts, tarps, tents, backpacks

Ripstop By The Roll- hammocks, tarps, underquilts and top quilts

Thru-Hiker Kits - Down jackets, vests, primaloft jackets and vests, rain gear, down quilt, climashield quilt

DIY 20°F Ultralight Backpacking Quilt- Part 4 Final Touches and Thoughts

Final Touches

Installing the Cord / Bungee

  • Cut your cord or bungee at least 6 inches longer than the length of your casing. This will make it easier to tie knots in once it is in place. 
  • Use some wire (I used a paper clip) to create a hook that will enable you to feed your cord through the casing
  • I used glow in the dark paracord because I had a bunch laying around. To reduce bulk and weight, I removed the core strands. 

My hook made from a paperclip
Drawcord with mini-cord locks installed

Adding Buckles

I decided to go with the Enlightened Equipment style of attachment with a couple of my own alterations. 

Bottom two buckles- For the bottom two buckles, I wanted them to connect to each other and be adjustable because I anticipate snugging my quilt up close around my feet and lower legs on cold nights. I used 5/8" grosgrain ribbon for the strap part. I probably should have used elastic to reduce the potential for tearing, but my buckles did not adequately grab the elastic and hold it in place when adjusted. I'll just have to sleep carefully on cold nights

Sewing on the straps/elastic to the liner- I very carefully hand sewed the buckle straps to my liner. The buckles along the torso part of the quilt are attached to 1/2" elastic that is sewn to the liner. 

Close up of one of the foot straps
What my quilt will look like on a cold night

Pad Straps

If your sleeping pad tapers, you'll need to make custom length straps for the different parts of your pad that correspond with the clips on your quilt. If you have a rectangular pad, ignore the above instructions and just make several of the same size straps.

**If you don't want to bother with making them, they can be purchased for $3 from Enlightened Equipment This is also a great place for a detailed look at how the straps are made.

  1. Start with a piece of elastic and put the female part of a clip on it about 10 inches from the end of the elastic and sew in place by making a little loop of elastic. Make sure you seal the end of the elastic with a lighter
  2. Inflate your sleeping pad and put it on the floor next to your quilt. (this is only necessary if your sleeping pad is tapered)
  3. Place your strap around your sleeping pad where it aligns with the quilt clips and pull it snug. Mark the spot with a silver sharpie
  4. Cut the elastic at least an inch beyond (longer) than the silver sharpie line
  5. Put the 'male' part of the buckle on the strap, it doesn't matter where
  6. Overlap the elastic so that the end you started with overlaps the other end and lines up with the silver line and sew 
  7. Repeat the steps for the number of clips your quilt has.


A Quilted Ray Way- the little black dots
are the pieces of yarn used to quilt
The Ray-Way quilt kits call for very loose quilting using yarn in a varied pattern all over the quilt. At first, I wasn't planning on doing any quilting to mine but then I noticed just how much the shell poofs away from the rest of the quilt, especially while packing it away.

My quilting in the shape
of the Big Dipper
I honestly hate the way the quilting looks on the Ray Way quilts- I think it looks very amateur. I decided that I didn't care too much about weight and wanted to add my quilting in a nicer pattern- in the shape of the Big Dipper using buttons and embroidery thread.
I had originally hoped to find star shaped buttons but had to settle for round ones. Maybe I'll find some and switch them out. Glow in the dark star buttons would be even cooler.

Final Thoughts, Lessons and Resources

Perfection isn't necessary.  Crooked seams, uneven casings and accidental gathers won't impact your quilt's ability to keep you warm. Sewing such a large object made with challenging materials makes perfect seams and casings nearly impossible even for seasoned sewers. Each piece of gear you make will be better than the last because you'll develop a feel for the materials and your machine.

Getting a Professional Look. If you want your quilt to look more professional, make sure you get enough fabric (unlike me) or make your casings beforehand and sew them in with the stack like the clips. To get neat folds and thus cleaner seams, iron your fabric beforehand, iron all your seams and your folds. Set your iron on a very low setting- 2 out of 9 works well. The polyester setting will probably be too hot. I did not do this because I was stupidly afraid it would melt. After more research I discovered that was not true.

Ask for advice. When planning my quilt I did TONS of research. There are so many blogs and tutorials out there with lots of good info. The HammockForums website was an enormous help. Forums about DIY outdoor gear offer the opportunity to get help from people who have done what you are doing. They can help you plan and give you tips if you get stick in a conundrum. When I realized I didn't have enough fabric, I turned to my mom to help me with a solution. Fabric stores are full of knowledgeable sewers who are happy to answer questions and offer advice.

Check back next week for resources on gear making, including tutorials, fabrics and components.

DIY 20°F Ultralight Backpacking Quilt Part 3 - Pinning and Sewing

Stacking and Pinning

If you are using thick insulation like I am, you will definitely need 'quilting' length straight pins. Using regular length pins will not work. I bought 1 3/4" pins for 7.5oz Climashield and it worked. If I had 10oz I would need longer pins. 
  • Pin your Shell and Liner fabric with right sides together. If your fabric has a side that is more shiny, that is the 'wrong' side
  • Sandwich the straps or draft flaps between the shell and liner, with the end of the strap/flap you want to be on the outside edge of your quilt pointing toward the center line of the quilt
  • After you've pinned the shell and liner to each other, pin the insulation on the bottom to them. The insulation will run against the feed dogs of your sewing machine

The ripstop nylon is very slippery and lightweight and does not like staying still. Pinning the liner and shell to each other (top of the photo) make it much easier to then pin them to the insulation (bottom of the photo)

**Note: I stupidly only ordered exactly two yards of fabric which is exactly 72" - not enough for at least 3" extra beyond the insulation on both the top and bottom. I had to stagger the lining and shell and then take scraps and sew them on to make up that distance. You'll see those seams in the sewing section. Don't make my mistake!**

Preparing to Sew

Make sure you have the right equipment

  • Needle- A universal (sharp) needle size 80/12 or 70/10
  • A walking foot
  • Size 70 thread -  make sure its 100% polyester!
  • A rubber band (you'll see why later)
  • A bobbin filled with your thread- if you're picky and you want your thread to match both your liner and shell that are two different colors, make a bobbin of both colors so you won't worry about which side is up, you can sew with whichever side is best to sew facing up and adjust bobbin color accordingly.

Do a test run

This part is so important! You do not want to ruin your quilt, so do a test run first with your scraps. Pin together a piece of insulation, a piece of shell and a piece of liner and sew. You'll see immediately if something needs to be adjusted- like stitch length, thread tension etc.  

Somehow, miraculously, I had absolutely no problems with my test piece. The 7.5oz insulation was much easier to squeeze under my presser foot than I anticipated and I didn't have to adjust the thread tension at all. My stitch length is 5.0, the longest my sewing machine will allow. 


Remember that rubber band in the equipment list? We will use that as a seam allowance guide. Simply put it around the bottom of the sewing machine to the right of the needle. Use a ruler to measure from the center of the needle to the rubber band and adjust the rubber band to match your desired seam allowance.

Sew down the sides of your quilt and don't forget to back-stitch at the beginning and end so your stitches don't come undone! I used 5.0 stitch length and automatic thread tension.

Now the exciting part! Flip your quilt inside out. It's starting to look like a finished product!

If you want to, you can trip away some of the insulation in the seam allowance to reduce bulk. I started to trim mine away but then realized that I didn't really care and the extra bulk might keep me warmer so I stopped halfway through.

Notice that both the top and bottom of the quilt are still open. We'll use this extra fabric at each end to form the casing for the elastic.

OOPS! Notice what's missing? There should be straps sticking out the sides of my quilt to put buckles on. I got so excited to get on with the sewing that I forgot to pin my straps in the stack. I'll have to carefully hand sew my straps on to the liner. Not the end of the world.

Making the Casing
Now we need to create our casing. A casing is a sewn channel of fabric for a draw string. In my case, I'm using bungee cord. I wanted a casing that was super easy to execute so I totally copied the way another blogger sewed their casing because it looked easy and simple. And it should have been except that I was dumb and had to sew on extra fabric. I am going to show you how I did mine, but remember I screwed up the lengths of my fabric so its a little harder to show you how to do it. Definitely check out the Tier Gear Under Quilt Tutorial to see very clear instructions on sewing the casing.

Turn the sides in and pin so that you have smooth edges and stitch. You're stitching from the corner
toward the insulation and stopping right when you get to the insulation.

**You may need to change your sewing foot back to a normal one for sewing through the thin layers of fabric without the insulation between them. I had a tough time getting straight even stitches using the walking foot**

Top stitch right at the edge of the insulation along the top and bottom of your quilt, sandwiching the insulation between the shell and liner. Sew as close as you safely can to the edge of your insulation

**Remember how yours should look- the blue should extend all the way to the edge of the gray. See that I've sewn through the insulation right at the edge.**

Turn the top edges toward each other to hide the raw edges and stitch with a small seam allowance maybe 1/4"-3/8" (I didn't have to do this step because of my too-short fabric fiasco)

Now fold over your flap of fabric so it makes a channel and pin it just beyond where the first horizontal seam is. Sew that down with a small seam allowance. 

Repeat the process at the bottom and you're ready for the last step!

DIY 20°F Backpacking Quilt Part 2- Marking and Cutting

What you need to mark and cut

  • Weller Woodburner or a hot knife. Any nylon fabric needs to be cut with heat so that the edges are sealed and will not unravel. Even capturing the edge with a french seam only delays unraveling. 
  • Some sort of heat-resistant material to put under your shell and liner fabrics- either a piece of wood, metal or glass. A few people online have used scissors to cut the fabric and then sealed the edge with a lighter, but they say it is extremely easy to accidentally melt too much fabric.
  • Good Sharp Fabric Scissors at least 9" long if you are working with thick insulation like I am. If your insulation is thinner, smaller scissors will work. Just make sure they're sharp. 
  • Permanent fine tip marker
  • Tailors chalk

Differential Cuts and Seam Allowances

Marking the outer shell- Spread your fabric out on a smooth flat surface like a hardwood or smooth tile floor and hold it down with weights.

I used a fine point sharpie to mark the shell because I knew that any marks would be hidden in the seam allowance. If you need to mark on a part of the shell that will show, use tailors chalk because it wipes away. Otherwise, the mark will show on your final quilt. The 'disappearing markers' you can get for marking fabric don't work on slippery ripstop nylon.

The shell / outer fabric needs to be cut slightly larger to allow for the loft (thickness) of the insulation. This is called a differential cut because the shell and liner are different sizes. If you don't do this, you may sacrifice some warmth as the insulation gets squished between the fabrics. I read somewhere that the general rule of thumb is 2x the loft of your insulation. So if your insulation is 1.5" thick, you want to add 3" of width. I read on an online forum that double the loft is overkill for synthetic, so I'm only adding 1.5x the loft.

Shell Layout
click to zoom
Additionally you will need to add a seam allowance. I want a 1" seam allowance to make it easier to sew the bulky insulation. I'll cut away the extra insulation after I finish sewing and the 1" of shell and liner seam allowance will be insignificant in bulk and weight.

Here is the equation for figuring total width, if you want to use the full differential for loft.
Final width + (1" x 2) + (loft x 2)

For total length, add at least 3" to both the top and bottom to use as a casing for bungee cord later on.

Marking the Lining Fabric-  The lining fabric does not require as much math. Simply add a 1" seam allowance to both sides and at least 3" at both the top and bottom.

Marking the Insulation- I added a 1" seam allowance to each side of the insulation and cut the length
to the exact measurement of your desired final length. I felt that 1" of seam allowance would make sewing easier. I can cut the extra bulk away after I'm finished sewing.

Measure Twice, Cut Once

Cutting the fabrics-  I used my Weller Woodburner that came with a knife attachment to cut my fabric and it worked like a dream. Cutting was much easier than I anticipated it would be. I found a small square piece of plywood that I used underneath the fabric as a cutting surface. Glass or metal would work too, but few of us have a nice smooth flat piece of glass lying around and the wood worked perfectly.

Cutting the Insulation- If you have rough calluses on your hands, grab some fine sand paper and smooth them down so they don't 'grab' the insulation. Moisturizing your hands prior to handling the Climashield will also help reduce 'grab.'

  1. I found that putting my insulation on the carpet created enough friction to hold it in place while I marked and cut. If you have to work on smooth floors, it might be a good idea to put a couple of weights in the center of your quilt to hold it in place. Just don't put them near the lines you'll be cutting or you'll get weird uneven edges. 
  2. Mark your cutting lines with a sharpie, a straight edge and a square. I was lucky and the level I used as a straight edge was the exact length I wanted to make my quilt. 
  3. Cut your insulation with very sharp fabric scissors. You may be able to take a big straight edge, press down the insulation and cut it on a mat with a rotary cutter or utility knife, but I didn't go that route. It was easy to cut with fabric scissors. 

Ready to keep going? Click the photo below for the next section

DIY 20°F Ultralight Backpacking Quilt for $100 Part One

Why a Quilt?

I chose to use a quilt for my sleep system this summer for several reasons:
  1. The insulation underneath you in a sleeping bag gets so compressed that hardly provides any insulation
    This is what I already have-
    The fitted sheet and tech blanket by
  2. Quilts weigh less
  3. I toss and turn at night and sleep on my stomach, back and side. Mummy bags annoy me. 
  4. I already have the Thermarest sleep system which consists of a fitted sheet for my sleeping pad and a very lightweight tech blanket that snaps to it. I plan to use my fitted sheet with my DIY cold weather quilt. 
  5. I couldn't afford a high quality 20°F mummy bag that weighed a reasonable amount. 
Why bother making it myself?
  1. I have read online that people with no sewing experience have been very successful making these. I have a good amount of sewing experience so I hope it will be easier for me.
  2. The wait time to get a quilt from a manufacturer is up to 8 weeks and I didn't have that long to wait. 
  3. I saved $80 by making it myself
  4. I get to make my blanket in the colors I want and with all the details I want

Design and Dimensions

Prodigy Quilt by
 Enlightened Equipment
My quilt design is based on the Prodigy Quilt by Enlightened Equipment.
I think the Prodigy is a good product at a reasonable price ($180), but I really needed to save the $80 and make it myself. I also wanted specific colors and a specific kind of liner fabric. 
I picked this design for several reasons:
  1. A casing (sewn channel of fabric) at the shoulders and foot with a bungee cord inside make it easy to create a foot box and cinch the quilt around the shoulders, eliminating heat loss.
  2. The simplicity of the design lends itself to ease of construction- it is a simple polygon without a hood, pockets or sewn channels
  3. The Enlightened Equipment website provides the exact dimensions for quilts to fit different sized people which eliminated the guesswork of figuring out how long and wide my quilt needed to be in order to be comfortable for my size. Here is a link to their Quilt Sizing page which has all the details.
I used the specs for the Short length, Narrow Width quilt which is for little people up to 5'6" who sleep on their backs or toss and turn at night. The finished specs for it are as follows:
Basic Specs:
Total length: 72"
Top half width- 50"
Tapers to 38 " at the foot box.
Insulation- 7.5 ounce Climashield (synthetic insulation)

Weight- 29.65 ounces

I chose to make my quilt go to 20°F because I tend to be a very cold sleeper. Here is a chart to help you choose which weight Climashield you should use:
2.5 oz - 50°F $7.00/yd
3.6 oz - 40°F $9.00/yd
5.0 oz - 30°F $10.95/yd
6.0 oz- 20°F $14.00/yd (only available from DutchWare Gear)
7.5 oz - 10°F $16.95/yd
10 oz - 0°F $23.50/yd
Materials List:
Total Cost: $96 with shipping

Tools and necessities:
  • Sewing Machine with walking foot
  • Quilting Straight pins at least 1 3/4" long
  • Hot knife / Woodburner with blade tip or scissors and lighter for cutting nylon
  • Lighter for sealing cut ends of bungee and elastic
  • Measuring tape
  • Yardstick or long straight edge
  • Square
  • Tailors chalk
  • Dumbell weights to hold materials down
Connection Options
Many quilts including those from Enlightened Equipment and Thermarest have systems to connect the quilt to the sleeping pad. This keeps the quilt from moving around when you toss and turn. 
The Enlightened Equipment
quilt strap system

The Enlightened Equipment system uses small clips along the sides of the quilt that correspond with clips on pieces of elastic that fit around the sleeping pad. This enables the user to snug the quilt up tightly around the body in cold weather. This system would be easy to integrate into a DIY quilt. Here is a link to a detailed description of how that system works.

Thermarest loops and snaps
Thermarest uses a system for their quilts which is much simpler than Enlightened Equipment but it doesn't give the user the ability to snug the quilt up around the body. This system uses small loops on the sleeping pad or sheet and little straps with snaps on the quilt itself. This system would be easier to incorporate into a DIY quilt and easily fixed if a snap broke.  

Someone on the Hammock Forums mentioned adding 'draft stoppers' to the edges of
The darker blue fabric on the edges
 is the draft stopper 
the quilt. These draft stoppers are just single layers of 6" wide shell fabric sewn to the edges of the quilt. They eliminate any drafts that might occur from a gap between the quilt and the sleeping pad / ground. I did a bit of research and found that the 
Ray Way Quilt Kit uses this design. The image to the right shows a Ray Way quilt turned upside-down so you can see the draft stopper edges. 

Ready to get started? Click HERE for Part Two

Traveling Safe: Help Rescuers Help You and Get Your Phone Back

Make it easy for someone to return your lost phone or contact your family in an emergency by putting your emergency contacts' information on the lock screen of your phone. I believe that 95% of people are good, honest people and will return your phone if they can. You can also add pertinent medical information like any allergies you have or medications you are taking. There are several ways to do this, and I'll walk you through them.

This post is written for iPhones but I assume there are similar apps and options on Android devices.

The easiest, fastest method: Using the Notes App

  1. Open the 'Notes' app on your phone. 
  2. Hit the return key until you are almost halfway down the page
  3. Type in your information, making sure to bold the most important items and using the space bar to center your text
  4. Take a screen shot by pushing the round home button on the bottom of your phone at the same time you push the lock.on/off button on the top of your phone
  5. Exit the 'Notes' app and open the Settings app.
  6. Scroll down to 'wallpaper' and click 'choose new wallpaper'
  7. Find the screenshot of your notes page, turn perspective zoom off and move the image until the lettering is just below the middle of the screen and hit save. 

The prettiest method: Using the 'Word Swag' app
  1. Go to the App Store and download the 'Word Swag' app ($3.99)
  2. Pick a pretty photo from your camera roll that was taken vertically and select 'don't crop' or go online and google pretty photos like clouds or stars and save the image to your photos by holding down on the image until 'save image' appears. 
  3. Type your text into the custom text area, making sure that the 'auto line breaks on' button is slid to the left to turn it off
  4. Use the return key to separate the lines of text
  5. Once you have your text typed in, click 'save & close'
  6. Now you can play with the style, color and size of the text. Remember your phone will zoom in so you want some room on either side of your text and your text to begin just below center of the screen. 
  7. Click 'Done' 
  8. Go to your 'Settings' app and scroll down to 'wallpaper'
  9. Select the photo you made in word swag, turn perspective zoom off and move the image until the lettering is just below center of the screen and you can read all the wording. If your wording was too big, you will have to go back and start over. Unfortunately Word Swag does not allow you to edit previously saved photos. 

Traveling Internationally 

If you're headed abroad, download the local language to the keyboard of your phone while you have internet. You are downloading just the keyboard for that language, not changing your phone to that language. This means your phone will still be in English and your default keyboard will be English. To switch languages while writing or texting, simply click the little gray globe at the bottom left near the spacebar.

When you arrive, enlist a local friend to help you write your information in their language. Make sure that the number listed next to the local language is someone who speaks it fluently and knows how to contact you and any other important information about you.

On the screen to the left, the number next to 'English' was my local cell phone number- a little brick Nokia.  The number next to the Arabic and French number was my Moroccan country director's number.

Medical ID and Health App

Don't forget to update your Medical ID in your Health app (iPhones) and enable Medical ID to show on the lock screen. This is important if you have 'push notifications' enabled on your phone. If you have recently received a text message or other notification and you have not looked at it, the background you're about to create may not appear. The only way for rescuers to access important information is through the Medical ID